Calvados : Anchored at Boumbap in Caen
Alongside Lili, Nicolas is bringing cocktail culture to the heart of Caen by restoring Calvados to its rightful place in mixology.
What is the origin of Boumbap, and how would you define the spirit of this “food-focused bar”?
I’m Nicolas Kermeur, and together with Lili Bonneau, we created Boumbap two years ago. It’s the evolution of my previous bar, Les Déserteurs. We moved from being a beer bar to a “cocktail bar & kitchen” with a strong focus on spirits. Our goal is to promote short supply chains : aside from a few Korean spices, all our products are French, even our sake!
To remain consistent, we chose to be completely independent of major distributors and their deals with industry giants. We buy our bottles directly from producers. It’s a different logistical challenge, but it allows us to unearth rare finds you won’t find anywhere else. Today, what truly drives me is the creative process and sharing my passion through the glass.
How do you share your passion for spirits and cocktails with your customers?
Quite simply, by taking the time to talk. You know, I might buy a bottle I’ve fallen in love with that sits on the shelf for a year, but the day someone spots it and asks a question, we share a genuine moment of discovery between enthusiasts.
Today, half of my customers have grown with me since the days of Les Déserteurs, while the other half comes for our reputation in cocktails and spirits via word-of-mouth.
But it’s a double-edged sword : people often say they love cocktails, yet they tend to stick to safe classics like the Mojito or the Spritz. That’s why we have a real educational role to play alongside our menu. Technical terms can be intimidating, so we’re here to say : “Take your time, ask me questions, I can guide you.” Modestly, my goal is to nudge the people of Caen out of their comfort zone.
When did you first discover Calvados, and what is your vision for this spirit, particularly in mixology?
I’m from Normandy, so I’ve been immersed in it since day one. At home, family meals often ended with the scent of apples, and I grew up near major distilleries like Christian Drouin and Père Magloire. This terroir speaks to me : in fact, I’ve planned a trip there for the whole team to visit the producers.
The challenge in Normandy is deconstructing old prejudices. Calvados used to be commonly “homemade,” sometimes with very little technical skill, leaving many with memories of a poorly distilled, harsh spirit. But that’s actually a misconception. When you compare it to gin, vodka, or whisky, Calvados is often perceived as the smoothest of the bunch, thanks to the fruit and its natural sugars. It’s not “strong”, it’s just misunderstood.
In mixology, it’s an incredible “all-rounder.” In classic cocktails, apple juice was often used as a base because it stretches the flavors without overpowering them. Calvados does the same thing but as a spirit : you can either highlight the apple as the star ingredient, or use its freshness to bridge the gap between all the other components in the glass.
How is Calvados consumption evolving in Caen and at Boumbap, in your opinion?
In Paris, Calvados has become quite common in cocktail bars. In Caen, historically, it’s mostly consumed in the “Embuscade” (a local specialty cocktail) more for its “kick” than for its flavor. But things are slowly changing, it’s a cycle that starts in the capital and eventually reaches us. However, many bars still stick to the “standard” spirits without considering Calvados, likely due to a lack of brand visibility on the ground.
At Boumbap, while tourists naturally gravitate toward Calvados, we still have to encourage the locals. It’s less obvious for them, so we offer different “Normandy versions” of classics like the Old Fashioned or the Negroni. By seeing Calvados twists all over our menu, people get curious and are often pleasantly surprised by the result.
Do you have a specific approach when creating your cocktail recipes?
My main source of inspiration is definitely cooking! I don’t have a formal background in hospitality, but I read a ton to learn the “golden rules” of flavor pairing and inject them into my own creations. On the menu, it’s all based on pastry techniques! For example, we developed our Espresso Martini like a “Banoffee” pie. But sometimes, it all comes down to a single gram or a few degrees : if you mess up, you lose the texture or the color.
What is your favorite cocktail?
I’m a big fan of the Old Fashioned, but I’d have to go with our twist on the Daiquiri. We use a 2‑year-old Calvados base, rounded out with rum to bridge the flavors. Instead of simple syrup, we add a “pear oleo” made from fermenting sugar and pears. Finally, we use verjus instead of lemon, primarily for ecological reasons. It’s a beautifully smooth recipe that I just love!
What musical style pairs best with Calvados?
Jazz! It’s just like Calvados : a multitude of instruments and nuances. Jazz is about exchange, tranquility, and versatility. It perfectly matches the philosophy of Boumbap and my own vision of what Calvados represents.
